South Pacific Moods

Last night with the moon just one day past full

you could see the sandy bottom and coral bommies in forty feet of water 

chalky white like the moon

trade wind clouds shuttled gently overhead

and the surf on the reef seemed content and quiet

it’s good to be awake in the middle of the night

 

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We are anchored in an atoll in the middle of the ocean

blue candy water

the haunting possibility of bonefish

Diana is not wearing clothes

when this winter front from down under passes and the wind settles back in again

what a beautiful place this will be

the passage down was textbook, two 180 mile days back to back 

before the wind died for long enough to get a bunch of water made

and top off the batteries

arrived early to see the “pass” out of Raroia roiling like white water in Yankee Jim Canyon

 

 

 

 

When the internet is everywhere will all these remote places cease to exist

will they be like the color “dunia” of Otto-Raul’s Ten New Colors

undone by the ubiquitous web, always visible, available, knowable

 

 

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Water makes us vulnerable to weather like nothing else

The wind swings and makes waves even in a protected lagoon

we put a lot of faith in our anchor rode

catching on coral rocks at the bottom

what does it take to break a piece of chain

if a pin works it way out of a shackle

everything we have could end up on the rocks

in a place too distant to recover it

 

 

 

 

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Death by Coconut

 

Coconut palms are a funny weed to have so beguiled a species

they count as an invasive species here in the Tuamotus

a government subsidized invasive species 

I guess so people have something to do, making copra

They are also incredibly dangerous

death by coconut is no joke

death by true love

is real too

you can keep looking up

but you can’t move fast enough

 

 

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The stars above the motu shine in shrill dissonance

to conversations about digital apps

we are utterly dependent on GPS 

and the stars wonder how they’ve become just window dressing

but nobody wants to hit a reef at night

the water sucks away from the cliff like edge and then hammers on like a threat

Kon Tiki wrecked here

 

 

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Two boats sailed in today from the southern end of the atoll

tandem, tacking upwind in a light breeze

at a distance it looked like one boat 

sailing as close as lovers, which it turns out they are

She eased her jib a little to fall back and follow
as they found a way through the coral heads

They moored to one anchor, one with a dark blue stripe, one light

tethered together with a boat length of line

He’s been single handing for six years

she wanted to learn 

and when they met she’d already been looking at getting this boat 

the same boat

So they sail together, she learning to sail alone

he’s not giving up on single handing,

since they are the same make of boat, they carry spares that work with each

on passage they can take turns watching each other’s boat sail by autopilot

watching for traffic and the hazards

they certainly have more space than they would with just one boat 

no one has to climb the mast if there is an argument

but there are risks and downfalls to the arrangement

it’s much more expensive

if something goes on with the other boat, they can only help as much as they are able

they are still truly single handing

they admit that at some point they will move on to one boat

she says it will be hers

a point he is not yet willing to concede

 

 

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