Isla Tiburon 2/21-2/26/16

Isla Tiburon Isla Tiburon

Isla Tiburon/Hast Hakim (SE corner) Isla Tiburon

Isla Tiburon Isla Tiburon

Isla Tiburon Isla Tiburon

Isla Tiburon Isla Tiburon

Isla Tiburon Isla Tiburon

It may be that it took us until then end of February to have our first real glimpse of the kind of days we expected this to be. Where we did not feel pinned down by a norther, or compelled by a schedule. We sailed where to the wind blew. Upwind actually, but we followed the course Allora was happy to take, without tacking and found a place that had what both of us were looking for. A breakthrough mosaic project, and fishing.

For the first few days we were here a small panga with fishermen visited and fished hard at the points of rocks on either side of the small cove where we anchored. I studied them with binoculars trying to decide what techniques they were using. Two younger guys with hand lines, and the owner of the boat with a spinning rod. The anchored and the handliners went to work. I did not see them catch more than one small fish, and wondered if they were catching bait. But it really looked like the spin fisherman was using a lure and jigging. I saw his rod bend a few times, but the fish seemed to get away. Then they moved to the other point and fished until almost dark. The next morning I went to the point where they were with my 11 weight (because the other rods are still buried under the aft bunk), and my spinning outfit with a white bucktail jig with rubber bait. There was very little breeze so I drifted and cast to the rocks, getting one strike almost right away, but the fish shook the hook in a few minutes. I decided my drag was too light for setting the hook and cranked it down a bit. It didn’t take much longer, maybe twenty minutes and I hooked a fish that pulled with conviction. The spin outfit bent over double as whatever it was ran deep for the rocks. Definitely a lot of fun, but I really wanted to know what it was so I didn’t want to lose it. I finally got the fish to the surface, some kind of grouper I thought, about four pounds. I tried killing it with a dash of tequila on the gills (heard talk of this working), but that only seemed to invigorate him and he made a mad dash from my hands back into the water. I resorted to more caveman-like tactics to subdue him. The fishermen were moving from their morning spot over to where I was fishing, so I decided to motor over and intercept them. I wasn’t sure how they’d feel about my fishing in their spot, or if they might be unhappy that I’d taken a nice fish. They were smiling as I pulled up and apologized for not speaking Spanish, so I hauled the fish up where they could see it. They seemed impressed and smiled. I asked, “Come se dice?” which was intelligible enough for them to inform me that it was a Cabrilla. The owner of the boat then lifted his own, the same size or a little bigger, which he’d also caught at the point. He asked to see what I was using and showed me his lure, too. I then did my best with sign language to confirm that it was okay to eat the Cabrilla. Not only okay, but very good was the answer. Bueno? I asked. Buena, they corrected. And it was, maybe one of the best filets of fish I’ve ever had. Super yummy.

My next trip out I decided to stick to fly fishing to see what might happen. I tied on the smallest Deceiver I had in the fly box and cast it out as far as I could, stripping it back the way I would on a river for trout, maybe a little faster. The fly would arrive with a bunch of interested fish, darting at it but not really hitting it. I tried a little faster, or maybe not, maybe I was just lucky but I hooked one. It fought hard, harder than any trout, but was seriously outmatched by the 11 wt. I let the line go slack, and the fish got off, though I’d gotten a pretty good look at it. A few minutes later I landed one, and had a heck of a time getting the hook out, destroying the fly in the process. I bent the barb down on the next fly, but didn’t get any more strikes after that. I looked the fish up when I got back to the boat and decided it was a Triggerfish, which my mother says is one of her favorites. The Mexican fishermen weren’t around to ask if it was okay to eat and since it’s a reef fish, we’ll wait until we can get a confirmation. We don’t want a case of ciguatera.

Finally, I went out to the point of rocks. I’d tried it once before but was really intimidated by the current and waves. I tried anchoring but couldn’t even reach bottom with Namo’s little anchor. This time it was a little calmer. Right away I brought in a school of long slender fish that were very aggressive with the fly, slashing at it and attacking; one even came out of the water after it, but none of them were getting hooked. I checked my leader and it was a little chewed up. This time I thought I knew what kind of fish it must be, a Sierra Mackerel, which I’d heard about. A few more casts, a few more strikes and then WHAM! This fish bent the rod and ripped line out of my hand. For me the first real fish here on a fly. It was a great battle and a gorgeous fish. It’s mouth was full of teeth so I was really glad to have bent the barb down and to have a pair of pliers, so I could release the fish without touching it.

I fly fished some more without luck, then switched to the spin outfit and caught a small Cabrilla. I had to drag it with me to row Namo away from some rocks and then I let it go. I decided, just for the heck of it to make a few more fly casts as I drifted out along the shelf of this outer rock. I’d made my last cast when suddenly a really big fish showed up behind the fly – at least thirty pounds and given where it was it must have been a yellowtail tuna. I stripped the fly faster but it wasn’t fast enough… but exciting because it was so unexpected. I tried a little more, including with the spin rod, but no luck. Diana would have loved sushi for dinner. Maybe next time.

The Grandmas

The new plan, was to drive up to Loreto to pick up the Grandmas and then to base out of La Paz and sail when the weather smiled. A late lunch with our Moms, Haley and Wyatt on the old square in Loreto was a great way to end the year. It was, as it has been, surprisingly chilly. The puffy’s have not retired yet. The bonus was a night in a hotel with a room several times bigger than our boat and a shower that seemed to have unlimited hot water. We amortized our guilty pleasure against our usual super spartan showers on board and the cold showers we’ve been finding at Baja marinas.

The 4+ hour drive north to Loreto included a nice taqueria in Constitution, which was super cheap even when you add the 200 peso bribe paid to the polizia on the way out, for missing a stop, “three stops back.” The smiling cop started at 1000, and Diana’s probably right that I could have gotten off for less than two hundred if I was a better negotiator. When I was motioned to the curb in La Paz for not “a-stopping” again, I got the policeman down to 120. He used his cell phone to find someone who could translate his extortion into English while his armor vested buddy stood by looking imposing but uncomfortable. Neither of them liked it when I raised the money visibly above the window. Both cops made sure to shake my hand and assure me that we were amigos.

The weather smiled so we sailed to Isla Espiritu Santo, to the anchorage at the southern end, Bahia San Gabriel, with a big wide beach and an old pearl farm and rookery of frigate birds. Haley climbed the mast for the first sunset, challenging a fear that seems perfectly reasonable to me (I haven’t been up there yet). Camille did it the next night, whooping and hollering the whole way up (so that’s where Diana gets it) and then Haley did it a second time, determined to get a better shot. She’s been photographing the whole time she’s been with us with projects in mind for her program at ICP. We had some trouble with the windlass picking up the anchor in the morning, and had to figure out how to use the manual adapter to crank the last 25 feet in by hand, but otherwise it was exactly the kind of trip we were hoping for with our mother’s. We used the last bit of wind to haul up our spinnaker to dry it out and were cruising along so nicely it was very hard to turn around, but we were headed exactly the wrong direction. We dried out our code zero next going only marginally closer to a course toward La Paz. The electronic chartplotter predicted an arrival at our destination in about a week and a half at that VMG (velocity made good). It was a pretty view of the island, and seemed like the perfect conditions to spot a whale, but no luck. So we motored and dozed our way back to our slip at Marina Cortez. The next day Haley left from Cabo for San Francisco.

One of the silver linings of Namo’s wandering was that German gave us the info for finding the whale sharks that cruise the shallow end of Bahia La Paz gulping down whatever it is they gulp. Namo bravely carried the five of us out, those at the bow learning the advantages of dinghy driving as compared to being a passenger. Hint: it’s even drier with a few bodies ahead of you to absorb the spray. Swimming with these huge fish (technically neither whales nor sharks) was as inspiring as it sounds. Wyatt and Diana got whacked by a tail more than once. I guess if you are that big and live on food that small, you don’t have time to worry about the strange creatures swimming alongside. The view from the dinghy was thrilling, too, as the giant sharks slipped by underneath us, three times our length.

Our last trip with the Grandmas was to Balandra, a beautiful little anchorage on the channel out of Bahia de la Paz. Officially, Diana’s first captaining of Namo, which went well, except for some extra rowing at the end. The shore party arrived certain they deserved margaritas. We had marlin for dinner and went to sleep as the wind began picking up from the southwest (instead of the forecast NNW). By midnight,  Allora was beginning to hobby horse in the steep chop, and the first our our neighbors peeled off. The anchor looked good, so I reset the anchor alarm and we slept for another hour or so. Then it was time to start tightening things down. I was happy we had Namo up on the davits, but we’d left the outboard on so she was heavy. We went around tying stuff down as two more neighbors in the anchorage headed out. We decided to give it another hour. Diana could no longer sleep, nor Wyatt. I tried in the forward cabin, but got a little seasick for the first time ever. We decided to leave. It took a while to get everything put together, and not much fun as Allora was really hopping now. Diana put in the lee cloth for Camille’s settee so she wouldn’t be tossed out of bed. Another boat left, and one followed us out at 3:30 leaving only one boat still braving the tumultuos little bay. We motored back to La Paz, and the waves diminished a little, though it was still rough, even in the harbor. My stomach and the strong current made for a very messy docking, and I was glad there were few witnesses.

 

Haley faces some inner turmoil and climbs the mast!
Haley faces some inner turmoil and climbs the mast!
P1020573
Haley atop the mast!
Look who wanted to climb next?!
Look who wanted to climb next?!
IMG_3448
Grandma felt secure in her grandson’s hands.

IMG_3472IMG_3468

12471881_10207192211715401_6957061927002383538_o
It’s the season to swim with the gentle and curious whale sharks!

DCIM100GOPROG0024760.

DCIM100GOPROG0024734.

DCIM100GOPROG0024753.

Wyatt’s edit of our whale shark swim:

IMG_3424 IMG_3432

Loreto for New Year's Eve
Loreto for New Year’s Eve

IMG_3438

IMG_3440

IMG_3444 IMG_3446 IMG_3489 IMG_3493 IMG_3503 IMG_3505 IMG_3507

I'll take the 'Esmeralda!'
I’ll take the ‘Esmeralda!’
IMG_3514
Movie night!
IMG_3554
beautifully handmade ‘guitar?’ (made in Portland, Ore.)
P1020768
The Magnificent Frigatebird

IMG_3418IMG_3509 IMG_3510 IMG_3511

IMG_3517 IMG_3518

IMG_3520

IMG_3523

IMG_3525

IMG_3530 IMG_3533

IMG_3557

P1020602P1020565 P1020613

P1020625

P1020632

P1020640

P1020645

P1020676

P1020681

P1020686

P1020700

P1020718 P1020732 P1020746 P1020757

P1020779

P1020813 P1020816 P1020819

P1020839

P1020843

P1020845

P1020848

P1020855

P1020859

P1020862

Those gregarious Grandmas!
Those gregarious Grandmas!
P1020899
They trusted their lives in my hands!

P1020871

P1020874

P1020889

P1020896

P1020902

P1020910

P1020922

DCIM100GOPROG0054808.

DCIM100GOPROG0034793.

P1020925

 

Haley’s Baja Portfolio

I asked Haley if I could use her images for our blog and you can see why! She also captured some of the more ‘real’ sides to this cruising life. Take the time to click on some of these to get the full image.

For more work from Haley Stevens, go to: hrsphotos.com