San Jose Del Cabo to San Carlos (6/5/16-6/21/16)

We try to stop whatever it is we're doing and sit on deck for the sunset.
We try to stop whatever it is we’re doing and sit on deck for the sunset.
Our new bit of heaven. We tried sleeping out on the foredeck (thanks, Phil for giving me that flush hatch) and haven't slept inside since! (until we got to the Marina in San Carlos).
Our new bit of heaven. We tried sleeping out on the foredeck (thanks, Phil for giving me that flush hatch) and haven’t slept inside since! (until we got to the Marina in San Carlos).
The wonderland of Puerto Los Gatos. I did another mosaic here. (Pics forthcoming).
The wonderland of Puerto Los Gatos. I did another mosaic here. (Pics forthcoming).
We love (Finding) NAMO!!
We love (Finding) NAMO!!
For everything from Rooster fish to Triggerfish.
For everything from Rooster fish to Triggerfish.

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Wyatt found a great sling in the automotive section of the grocery store, so we fashioned a swing seat for the bow!
Wyatt found a great sling in the automotive section of the grocery store, so we fashioned a swing seat for the bow!
Southern Anchorage, Punto Los Gatos
Southern Anchorage, Punto Los Gatos

 

Lift off!
Lift off!
For someone who never fancied himself a handyman, this Captain's mighty skilled.
For someone who never fancied himself a handyman, this Captain’s mighty skilled.
See the ray jumping?!
See the ray jumping?!
Good Morning Sunshine! On our latest passage from Baja to the mainland
Good Morning Sunshine! On our latest passage from Baja to the mainland
We've been enjoying running directly downwind with the wing and wing configuration, this time with the Asymmetrical Spinnaker/Main combo.
We’ve been enjoying running directly downwind with the wing and wing configuration, this time with the Asymmetrical Spinnaker/Main combo.
The wind is southeast and blowing, so we move
wing and wing like a magnificent frigate
gliding down the San Jose Channel
in flat water with the genoa poled out we are flying along
we set a course based on how the wind is blowing at this moment
but it always bends, arcing our track to port or starboard
eventually the beautifully curved sails will need to be reset
a trawler rumbles-chugs by reminding us that the wind keeps things interesting
relieves us of the manmade world of straight lines
which probably never existed anyway
the hologram of our viral imagination
a symptom of square houses
back again in the world of timelessness
more than an ocean planet,
this must be an ocean universe
everything curves and waves 
from swirls of galaxies to eddies in a mountain brook
if we trusted our instincts, we’d know 
that time moves the same way
despite the misconceptions of geometry and right angles
which pattern the web or synapses of our curved and folded brains
not a straight line to be found
passion prefers curves after all
-MS
I was on watch when this tanker crossed our path within a mile - the wake from it was sizable! Thanks to our AIS, we know all sorts of information about it, including its CPA (closest point of approach).
I was on watch when this tanker crossed our path within a mile – the wake from it was sizable! Thanks to our AIS, we know all sorts of information about it, including its CPA (closest point of approach).
The wind has become more important than ever
though the forecasts are often wrong
we lean on every scratchy word, warbling through the single side band
you come to expect that if the weatherman says its clear
he’s at least looked outside
seen the fog, or marine layer or whatever it is, with his own eyes
the weather forecasts we get in Baja come in two forms
automated, computer model generated, with caveats
has not been vetted by human eyes
or voluntary, a guy named Geary who lives in Bahia Concepcion
who has an interest in the weather,
won’t forecast more than three days out
no matter how many people ask
cuz he knows better
he’s fascinated by criminals who do stupid things
you should be able to get his weather online
(thank you Geary for the weather)
but if they’d had websites in the 70’s 
they’d have looked like the sonrisa.net, just probably worked better
-MS
We were hailed and asked to tow in the skiff Gitano, with Kristina, Jeff and Willy Dog. We had to backtrack a bit to head to Loreto, but as serendipity would have it, a humpback whale breached right beside us! They were kind enough to give me a lift to the nearest market, treated us to lunch and took the bags of trash we'd been accumulating. Ah, the kindness of strangers (now friends). We may see them again, as they live full time in Loreto.
We were hailed and asked to tow in the skiff Gitano, with Kristina, Jeff and Willy Dog. We had to backtrack a bit to head to Loreto, but as serendipity would have it, a humpback whale breached right beside us! They were kind enough to give me a lift to the nearest market, treated us to lunch and took the bags of trash we’d been accumulating. Ah, the kindness of strangers (now friends). We may see them again, as they live full time in Loreto.
Cortez Round Stingray - came within 3" of the shore.
Cortez Round Stingray – came within 3″ of the shore.
This fisherman's in new territory ... this ain't MT anymore.
This fisherman’s in new territory … this ain’t MT anymore.
Hieroglyphic Hawkfish Cirrhitus - happened to be talking to Maddi, so we sent her a pic and she looked it up online for us! Turns out, they're not good for dinner :(
Hieroglyphic Hawkfish Cirrhitus – happened to be talking to Maddi, so we sent her a pic and she looked it up online for us! Turns out, they’re not good for dinner 🙁
We jump in MANY times a day!
We jump in MANY times a day!
Now this DOES make my butt look small! (That picture exists, but I didn't dare share).
Now this DOES make my butt look small! (That picture exists, but I didn’t dare share).
Fairyland!
Fairyland!
Very Moab-esque.
Very Moab-esque.
Puerto Los Gatos
Puerto Los Gatos
Under the category underestimating people
the boat that sailed in last night
Apolima, Gary and Phyllis
An older couple, she’s a proud great-grandma
you might see them among the motorhomes at the rest stop at 19th in Bozeman
happy to be near Costco and not that far from Walmart
and you might think you know the whole story
her body type fits the casting stereotype
he’s more of the “can eat no fat” line
their boat is the same length as Allora
but nearly twice the weight at 58,000 pounds
we’ve met others in the Sea, who make cruising here a lifetime thing
who keep a motorhome in Guaymas
who have planned for years to sail to the Pacific
but haven’t made it, and now bad knees and shoulders that need surgery
make it an unlikelihood 
but Gary and Phyllis did sail to the South Pacific,
spent three days in hurricane force winds off New Zealand
with four children on board
I promise you would never ever guess
-MS
These rocks were pretty chaucy, as Wyatt would say.
These rocks were pretty chaucy, as Wyatt would say.
Small whale?
Small whale?
My turn! Just one day of fever and nausea - probably a flu bug.
My turn! Just one day of fever and nausea – probably a flu bug.
Our Pressure Water pump failed and the uber handy vintage ice pick (the one we used camping when I was a kid) comes to the rescue as the tool to have for the job.
Our Pressure Water pump failed and the uber handy vintage ice pick (the one we used camping when I was a kid) comes to the rescue as the tool to have for the job.
Water temp 78 degrees - which, as it turns out, is PERFECTION!!
Water temp 78 degrees – which, as it turns out, is PERFECTION!!
The infinite colors of the Sea of Cortez.
The infinite colors of the Sea of Cortez.
Single Side Band Radio
is not compatible with the purring, buzzing, crazy electric hum of modern cities
a bunch of old guys talking about the weather
twenty years ago, thirty
it might have been revolutionary, subversive, banned in Thailand
based on the demographics it will be gone in less than ten years
the last “Delta Whiskey Tango” will whisk away across the galaxy
puzzling some old extraterrestrial geezer on some planet in a binary solar system
thirty thousand light years from now
we’re lucky to have used it when it was still useful
in less than five years, it’ll just be an old piece of equipment
remnant emails made with call signs
WDI2867@whut?.com
Diana needs to hurry up and get her Ham license
-MS
Sweet beach.
Sweet beach.
Love these exploratory kayak trips!
Love these exploratory kayak trips!
This time I moved the swing sling forward of the genoa. Great place to whale watch.
This time I moved the swing sling forward of the genoa. Great place to whale watch.
Nights aboard Allora are pure magic.
Nights aboard Allora are pure magic.
Stars,
it easier to imagine finding your way around the world by the stars 
than I would ever have guessed 
Once that dome becomes familiar, Scorpio and Antares in the south sky
Arcturus directly over head, 
it would be like walking in the mountains
keep the peaks where they belong and how can you go wrong
latitude would be a cinch
longitude would want a clock
the Milkyway rolls across the sky, like the wake of a cosmic clipper
-MS

San Jose Del Cabo/(hospital visit) to La Paz 5/21-6/5/16

Per John, "My mother always says I'm a bum, but if so, I've got the best bum view in the whole world." He lives out here, but dreams of heading to Honduras because he feels Baja's gotten too crowded.
Per John, “My mother always says I’m a bum, but if so, I’ve got the best bum view in the whole world.” He lives out here, but dreams of heading to Honduras because he feels Baja’s gotten too crowded.
Bahia Los Frailes.
Bahia Los Frailes.
Bahia Los Frailes (before we had to head back to San Jose Del Cabo)
Bahia Los Frailes (before we had to head back to San Jose Del Cabo)
I did a mosaic in these rocks!
I did a mosaic in these rocks!
Rooster fishing!
Rooster fishing!
Portuguese Man of War - Small "Blue bottles" - washed onto the beach with the incoming tide.
Portuguese Man of War – Small “Blue bottles” – washed onto the beach with the incoming tide.
The calm before the storm (MS was working on his 'moderate dehydration' all day whilst fishing and not drinking).
The calm before the storm (MS was working on his ‘moderate dehydration’ all day whilst fishing and not drinking).
We left La Cruz finally liberated
engine humming, a nice breeze in the offing
I had a bad feeling in my stomach, thinking,
maybe you shouldn’t eat somewhere you haven’t the night before a passage
it stayed with me and I worried about seasickness
(if only I could be that lucky)
by noon the next day I was sick, 100.7 fever
Off limits prison islands off our starboard, still a navigation issue
you have to give them 20 miles berth,
and of course the wind and current were pushing us that way
Diana got Allora sailing on a nice tack, clipping along our rhumb line
she juggled keeping the boat sailing
with calling doctors on the sat phone to confirm I didn’t have appendicitis
she ended one call, reefed, took my temp and palpated my abdomen, 
and headed back up to check the AIS and radar
we decided to head for San Jose del Cabo just to be safe, 24 hours away in a straight line
she was in for a long, long, night
I later told the doctor the stomach cramps were 10 on the pain scale,
which I guess doesn’t leave room for losing a limb or having a tree fall on your head
“if a tree don’t fall on me, I’ll live ’til I die” I sang to myself between spasms
I don’t see any point in saving up my pain numbers
the darkest part of the night is the darkest part of the night
dawn has nothing to do with it
Diana’s been awake and on watch with only three or four hours of sleep in forty eight hours
like good boy scouts we monitor VHF 16
in the US, the Coast Guard keeps it all official
in Mexico, whistles and other bizarre calls are common
in the middle of the southern crossing, as I suffered for my epicurean sins
and Diana sacrificed her sanity to sleep deprivation
some pendejo started meowing on 16, like a cat
no answer. no apparent reason
other than to emphasize our proximity to the tenth circle of hell
Could hardly get him to respond.
Could hardly get him to respond.
The haloed helper!
The haloed helper!
Marcus was in great hands.
Marcus was in great hands.
Phenomenal care - but our bill at this private hospital was stupendous!
Phenomenal care – but our bill at this private hospital was stupendous!
They must be used to smaller patients!
They must be used to smaller patients!
Finally underway, heading back to Los Frailes and beyond.
Finally underway, heading back to Los Frailes and beyond.
I don’t know what kind of bird that is huddling down in the sand looking like a marabou stork, smaller running down the beach like she doesn’t know the game I’m coming this way the aquamarine border of another world trembles with the shifting air sparkles and confuses with the light long fish with razor teeth lay in wait along the surf line (MS - Isla Cerralvo)
I don’t know what kind of bird that is
huddling down in the sand
looking like a marabou stork, smaller
running down the beach like she doesn’t know the game
I’m coming this way
the aquamarine border of another world
trembles with the shifting air
sparkles and confuses with the light
long fish with razor teeth lay in wait along the surf line (MS – Isla Cerralvo)
El Capitan, back at the helm
El Capitan, back at the helm
Allora, bathed in light
Allora, bathed in light
Caught Isla Cerralvo anchorage under the right conditions. This channel can get ferocious during unsettled seas.
Caught Isla Cerralvo anchorage under the right conditions. This channel can get ferocious during unsettled seas.
A burial site of the legendary 'Vagabundos del Mar' - native Sea gypsies that roamed the area in dug out canoes powered by triangular sails and paddles. Fishing and foraging, they lived in small family groups and avoided outside contact except to trade for hooks or water. When they died, their bodies were brought to Isla Cerralvo.
A burial site of the legendary ‘Vagabundos del Mar’ – native Sea gypsies that roamed the area in dug out canoes powered by triangular sails and paddles. Fishing and foraging, they lived in small family groups and avoided outside contact except to trade for hooks or water. When they died, their bodies were brought to Isla Cerralvo.

IMG_5036

We try to sit in the cockpit each night at this hour.
We try to sit in the cockpit each night at this hour.
Turtle carcass. Eighty-four dead turtles in two weeks, Banderas Bay one drifted by the boat, we almost hit it paddling weakly, nothing to do under sail and miles from shore Diana thought he seemed to want to follow another buried in the sand at Bahia de Los Angeles they died of natural causes eating the wrong kind of jellyfish
Turtle carcass.
Eighty-four dead turtles in two weeks, Banderas Bay
one drifted by the boat, we almost hit it
paddling weakly, nothing to do
under sail and miles from shore
Diana thought he seemed to want to follow
another buried in the sand at Bahia de Los Angeles
they died of natural causes
eating the wrong kind of jellyfish -MS
With summer approaching, we are excited about the heavenly AGUA!
With summer approaching, we are excited about the heavenly AGUA!
A wing and wing kind of day - enroute to La Paz
A wing and wing kind of day – enroute to La Paz
Discovered some seizing wire on our anchor shackles that needed some attention. 3x and a ziptie should do it!
Discovered some seizing wire on our anchor shackles that needed some attention. 3x and a ziptie should do it!
Always a LONG list of 'to do's.
Always a LONG list of ‘to do’s.
Not the easiest place to work.
Not the easiest place to work.
Somniloquy
Last Diana night talked in her sleep about “sauce on categories”
which she “found” to be most effective when popping them
we have a few categories to pop
the first one might be uncooperative, lying Mexican mechanics
A brand new boat with a brand new engine
that won’t run without a part that isn’t broken.
an air leak in the fuel supply that can’t be fixed

-MS