Short passage, long couple of days …

Just before we left La Cruz, Diana wondered aloud whether passages would ever feel routine, no big deal. I said I didn’t think so because you never know for sure what’s going to happen. We’ve made it to our planned destination just once out the last four passages. The first time because the wind was blowing a certain way, so why fight it? Then because we had an unexpected engine problem, we made a 90 degree turn for the mainland. On the next big crossing, we made it to Puerto Vallarta as planned, but this most recent trip (unplanned in the grand scheme) we aimed for Bahia Los Frailes and ended up in Puerto Los Cabos. The engine ran flawlessly, but not so my gut. Diana’s single handling skills were tested along with her doctoring skills, to make sure it was not appendicitis. We were pretty sure it was just bad food or water that had me laid out with a fever and nightmarish stomach cramps, but we headed for a port where we could find a doctor just in case, and Diana pulled an all nighter to get us there. It’s confidence building for both of us to know she can come up with the right treatment for me, while keeping Allora sailing along beautifully and reef the sails as she confirms her diagnosis via Sat phone.

I moved Marcus up on deck for awhile to change venues and give him some fresh, moving air.
I moved Captain Marcus up on deck for awhile to change venues and give him some fresh, moving air.
It was good to see MS able to sleep a bit.
It was good to see MS able to sleep a bit.
Sunset over the Pacific. It's going to be a long night ...
Sunset over the Pacific. It’s going to be a long night …
Our modified course put us beating into the wind and waves - in the night they ranged from 3-7', but were closely spaced, so Allora worked hard to keep moving along.
Our modified course put us beating into the wind and waves – in the night they ranged from 3-7′, but were closely spaced, so Allora worked hard to keep moving along.
I kept a detailed log - mainly just to have something to focus on every half hour (and to keep track of Marcus' medicine schedule).
I kept a detailed log – mainly just to have something to focus on every half hour (and to keep track of Marcus’ medicine schedule).
The long night was over!
The long night was over!

 

An unexpected month in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico

A 65 year old man our neighbors in La Cruz knew as an eccentric
disappeared on the way to the Marquesas, he’d brought along a young woman to crew (23)
he was a purist (a derogative) 
maybe he had a hand held GPS, maybe he didn’t have anything
it’s her family who noticed she was missing
his boat was slow, heavy and slow
it’s been 45 days, 
the question is, 
did he have water?
There are a lot of questions.

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Dona Mari collects the recycling out of the trash bins every morning and afternoon and walks it on the cobblestone streets who knows how far. She's a hero.
Dona Mari collects the recycling out of the trash bins every morning and afternoon and walks it on the cobblestone streets who knows how far. She’s a hero.
Bilge pump hose replacement.
Bilge pump hose replacement.
It would definitely pay to be a contortionist for most every job aboard.
It would definitely pay to be a contortionist for most every job aboard.
Biking everywhere for everything.
Biking everywhere for everything.
These two guys had all things diesel to talk about for two straight days.
These two guys had all things diesel to talk about for two straight days.
Eric trying to make some sense of our predicament.
Eric (Santa Barbara Yanmar pro) trying to make some sense of our predicament.
Our new awning! One advantage to staying in the same place long enough.
Our new awning! One advantage to staying in the same place long enough.

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The iguana tree
The iguana tree

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Dancing horses, lathered, one bloodied nose
long shank spade bits, mechanical hackamores and spurs
Corona Light has cornered the market 
a gringa sharing a saddle that’s a tight fit,
she looks unsure of her own reaction
the vaquero expects applause perhaps 
for his kidnapping, but gets little reaction
the band blasts, their indefatigable armature
and you can feel they’ve been at it for hours
and its not even dark, an alcoholic marathon
a young girl slips among the crowded feet
collects beer cans, neatly empties them and fills plastic bags
a plywood stage shakes and buckles, but survives
the stopping of dancers feet
men with their hands behind their backs
the women solemnly parade the saint before dancing
swirling skirts white and red
an aztec dance with rattles on the ankles
looks oddly Egyptian
quarter sticks of dynamite randomly rattle the windows
up the dirty cobblestone street, 
behind a cyclone fence blocked with plastic tarps
a pile of losers
roosters who lost their fights
a thin man spitting and strutting (rubbing his nose nervously or)
calls out the time, as spurs are strapped on 
and the “trainers” stretch the Gallo’s legs and antagonize them to fight
the current champ cradled waiting in his owners arms
new birds arrive in specially designed cardboard boxes, 
with convenient handles, and professional logos of roosters
a young woman tosses water melted from the ice to keep the dust down
you need a ticket to see more than the blur of feathers 
when occasionally they leap above two foot board of the fighting ring
men, and a couple women, watch dispassionately
the announcer calls out the stages of death
still flapping wings, dropped in the pile of losers
a truck arrives with more boxes (MS)

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Check out the bassinet
Check out the bassinet
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twirling blurs
Elizabeth's got a mean throw, but no cerveza was won :(
Elizabeth’s got a mean throw, but no cerveza was won 🙁
Fussball fun.
Fussball fun.
'La Cruz Days' were filled with shows and music and fireworks (some flashy, some just noise).
‘La Cruz Days’ were filled with shows and music and fireworks (some flashy, some just noise).
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They had informal dressage performances ALL day.

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And the band played on ...
And the band played on …
Siesta!
Siesta!
The ocean was the PERFECT temp!!!
The ocean was the PERFECT temp!!!
Yeah, not sure what to say...
Yeah, not sure what to say…

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This was a great local beach getaway.
This was a great local beach getaway.

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Chacala - fishing village about an hour north of Bahia de Banderas.
Chacala – fishing village about an hour north of Bahia de Banderas.

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This is a table top!
This is a table top!
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Elizabeth came to visit for about 9 days and we didn’t want to let her leave!

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This old mining town used to be home to thousands and now there are 600 or so residents.
This old mining town used to be home to thousands and now there are 600 or so residents.

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San Sebastian del Oeste.
San Sebastian del Oeste.

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Some more 'mechanicos' take a shot and get stumped ...
Some more ‘mechanicos’ take a shot and get stumped …
Iguana love. Design brilliance.
Iguana love. Design brilliance.
Seriously cool tree and the beautiful Elizabeth in the foreground.
Seriously cool tree and the beautiful Elizabeth in the foreground.
Comida in San Sebastian del Oeste, up in the (cool) mountains
Comida in San Sebastian del Oeste, up in the (cool) mountains
Special price for YOU!
Special price for YOU! Elizabeth brought us all sorts of needed items from the States, so she had LOTS of room to fill in her suitcase!

 

Downtown PV - suspension bridge with death just a moment away.
Downtown PV – suspension bridge with death just a moment away.
Kaleidoscope Bar
Yep, a full bar at the carnival.
Elizabeth's got a mean swing
Elizabeth’s got a mean swing
Not your typical carnival opportunity
Not your typical carnival opportunity
Rapt
Rapt
Aspirations
Aspirations
Beach time
Beach time with Mama.
Sayulitaville
Sayulitaville
We went to downtown PV to meet up with Marcus' first backpacking mentor, Doug Porter. Elizabeth and Doug were friends from Nicasio.
We went to downtown PV to meet up with Marcus’ first backpacking mentor, Doug Porter. Elizabeth and Doug have been friends since the Nicasio days.
Sayulita
Sayulita
Elizabeth was the only gringo dancin' in the plaza.
Elizabeth was the only gringo dancin’ in the plaza.
'La Cruz Week' - definitely a family focused celebration.
‘La Cruz Week’ – definitely a family focused celebration.
Chillin' in Chacala
Chillin’ in Chacala
fancy pants
fancy pants
La Cruz is known as the city of live music.
La Cruz is known as the city of live music.
Yep, that was my fault.
Yep, that was my fault.
This guy ran away from me taking the pic - right INTO someone's home - oops!
This guy ran away from me taking the pic – right INTO someone’s home – oops!